Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs, two of the leading fashion designers in the US, presented on Wednesday completely opposite collections on the last day of the New York Fashion Week, in which one evoked the energy of the disco movement and the other distilled a disturbing melancholy.
The first to present his proposal for this fall was Kors, who turned his show into an authentic disco party in which he paid tribute to the New York night and the iconic Studio 54, a “show” that included the performance of two icons of the era, the singer Barry Manilow and the model Patti Hansen.
On a catwalk illuminated by abundant and striking lights and disco balls, parades that made the public back four decades with voluminous coats of fur and fur turned, shirt collars in peak, shiny sequins and many feathers.
They also saw a number of colorful floral prints, horizontal stripes in neutral tones, bright oversize jacket suits of wide pants and high waist, or dresses full of fringes in metallic.
The well-known logo of Studio 54 also appeared in several of his garments, made in most cases in sequins of various colors.
The designer, who founded the fashion house that bears his own name in 1981, wanted to remember the night of the first years he spent in New York, a moment that for him was “great creativity”.
“The sidewalks were like walkways, an explosion of style,” read one of the messages that was projected minutes before the “show”, held at the exclusive Cipriani’s restaurant. “This was when the rules disappeared and a new kind of glamor emerged,” he said.
The parade closed with a last suit of gold jacket shown by Patti Hansen, after which Barry Manilow played one of his greatest hits, “Copacabana”, to the rhythm of which one of the supermodels of the moment, Bella Hadid, danced next to her.
The Kors catwalk attracted a long list of celebrities, including the couple composed of Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones, accompanied by their daughter in common, Carys Zeta Douglas, in addition to the actresses Olivia Wilde, Kate Hudson or Priyanka Chopra.
For its part, the Marc Jacobs fashion show, which is considered to be the end of New York Fashion Week, was transformed into a dark fantasy with a dark black catwalk that was accompanied by extravagant proposals of exaggerated proportions.
Among them, a long midi dress, consisting of a large flashing tulle skirt, tight torso but with large lantern sleeves, or a voluminous short strapless dress, composed of a combination of feathers in white and sky blue.
It was this material, the pen, that stood out most in Jacobs’ proposal, which was also used in the design of another large black and white dress, with a wide skirt that split from the chest and short sleeves of spherical shape .
The pen also positioned it as a complement to the hair of the mannequins, although instead of being small and light, as in the garments, they were long and rigid, which rose towards the sky starting from simple and dark wool hats.
In his designs, which were reminiscent of those portrayed by characters in a children’s story, Jacobs pointed to the trend of “oversize” coats, which he presented in dark gray and red, and high boots cordoned off.
The tense music played live by a quartet of string instruments increased the surreal character of the show, which included models such as Christy Turlington, Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber or Karlie Kloss, and attended by celebrities such as the singer Rita Ora or the actress Shailene Woodley. (EFEUSA) .-