Helen Cook and Nora Quintanilla
The glamor of American Ralph Lauren and Israeli Elie Tahari inaugurated New York Fashion Week, which celebrated its first day after the unofficial premiere of Tom Ford last night.
Ralph Lauren immersed himself in elegance and luxury with a Spring 2019 proposal dominated by feminine and slender designs for those who used luxurious and sophisticated materials in black and gold, and sometimes white.
The parade took place as one of the new “Ralph’s Coffee” coffee shop located in the shop of the exclusive Madison Avenue, decorated with classic white marble tables, large mirrors and crystal lamps.
Among the attendees, who tasted coffee, pastries and juices, the models slowly paraded, dressed in jackets, trousers, trench coats, flowing pleated dresses or large capes on the shoulders, all in gold.
The black was also very present in the entire Ralph Lauren collection, which he decorated with gold elements such as jackets, big belt buckles, small crossed bags, shoes and, above all, voluminous earrings that framed the face of the models.
In terms of materials, she highlighted the sequin in dresses and tops fitted at the waist, organza silk in light shirts, and transparent tulle that gave movement to baggy pants.
The fashion designer, who as usual walked among the attendees at the end of the parade to receive congratulations, had some of the most sought-after models of the moment, such as the Americans Joan Smalls, Taylor Hill and Bella Hadid, who paraded with a festive gold dress .
Among the public, well-known mannequins such as Karlie Kloss, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Grace Coddington, former model who is currently the creative director of the American edition of Vogue.
Another one of the outstanding parades was the one of Elie Tahari, that celebrated 45 years in the industry of the fashion today with a special parade in the city that catapulted it, New York, and with a collection that distilled the glamor and the energy of Studio 54.
There was an expectation for Tahari’s proposal at the Spring Studios, home of the New York “Fashion Week”, where the coveted first line brought together “influencers” from social networks and actresses like Laverne Cox or Bella Thorne.
The Autumn-Winter 2019 proposal was sophisticated but daring, although very practical: gold and bronze colors were seen as opposed to purple jewels, and fabrics with different textures and volumes in garments such as wide leg pants, capes or ponchos.
Among the most striking designs were skirts and fur jackets with lynx prints; coats, skirts and dresses with brocaded finishes; and the sensual satin was used discreetly, in a pleated skirt, a draped dress or a suit pants.
Once the more than forty proposals of the designer to dress the woman who every day “sailed that jungle” that is New York “with aplomb”, came at last the real show that many expected: the supermodel Christie Brinkley .
The iconic mannequin, 65 years old, had been announced as the final touch of the runway, and for the first time paraded in the same event as his daughter Sailor, 20 years. Both woke up applause among the audience, although the mother took the spotlight.
Meanwhile, the Japanese designer Tadashi Shoji, known for dressing a long list of celebrities on the red carpet, today showed a collection that reminded the medieval royalty of sumptuous materials and intense colors.
The velvet was one of the main fabrics, which presented in long dresses crimson red, night blue, moss green and jet black, some with wide sleeves and others leaving the shoulders exposed.
She also used delicate prints of plant motifs in silver or gold on black in skirts both voluptuous and tight to the body, combined with sturdy gold shoes finished in tip.
The sequin and tulle were present in a good number of models, as well as the gradient of colors that has been known in recent years with the term “ombré”, and that was one of the characteristics of its star pieces in the parade last September of New York.
The Tadashi Shoji show also stood out for the important presence of models of large size, which, unlike other designers, has included decisively in their designs.
For its part, Noon by Noor loaded its autumn-winter proposal with the femininity and romanticism that characterize them, this time with colors very similar to those of other designers: the basic black, white and camel combined with each other or with some garment in yellow and green tones typical of precious stones.
The pieces of two Arab dressmakers followed generally simple lines: long and flowing dresses with some draping at the waist or pleated at the skirt; pants adjusted to the hip and loose on the leg, with blouse or sweater of wide size; and for the cold, structured coats.